When making dinner plans in Stow on the Wold, it usually consist of checking The Old Butchers' website for tables, and when they are full dropping Pete and Louise a message to see if they can squeeze us in. I'm pretty biased as I live just down the road, and If you can ignore trying to park during the day and driving through the town in the summer, Stow is brilliant. Not only has it got history and beautiful honey-coloured architecture coming out of both both nostrils, it also boasts one of our favourite brunch spots in The Hive, D'Ambrosi which offers the most incredible 'food-to-go' (go and check it out for yourselves as that sentence doesn't do it justice) and in our view, it's the 'coffee capital of the Cotswolds' with at least five properly good places to enjoy a caffeine hit, including one the smallest coffee roasters in the UK, Stow Town Coffee. There's also The Old Stocks. And if that sounds like a bit of an after thought, it was meant to. They like to promote themselves as the "best kept secret" (which nobody really wants to be) and it always seems to play second fiddle to The Old Butchers with the locals. There is absolutely no reason why. The last couple of times we have eaten here, we always kick ourselves that we haven't been back sooner, yet once again, we have left it over two years to come back which is completely crazy. A lot has happened since our last visit. King Charles III was coronated, The Beatles released a new record and John Broughton became Head Chef at The Old Stocks. The latter happened back in November, but as I detest winter and hibernate for most of it, it has taken until now to finally go. The appointment of John is huge. For eighteen months before arriving at 'The Stocks', he was Sous Chef, then Head Chef at the excellent Royal Oak at Whatcote, the only pub in the Cotswolds to hold a Michelin Star. Prior to that, he spent five years at Foxhill Manor. With a Christmas menu already written before he got there, it has taken until the last couple of months for him to properly put his stamp on the food. The menu he has created is designed as a two or three-course menu. You can have one course if you wish. It's all explained on the first page of the leather-bound files you get presented with as you get seated. I missed the section about the £2 unlimited still or sparkling water for the table that gets donated to charity as I said "tap is fine please" when asked. I'm too used to seeing £15 added to my bill and nobody owning up to ordering it. Also explained is "The Tasteful Twelve", an idea stolen from a restaurant that GM Richard once visited, which on the surface sounded a bit gimmicky but is actually a lovely addition to the experience. The easiest way to describe it is that each of you roll a dice and the number it lands on corresponds with a flavoured liqueur which they add to a glass of prosecco. It's a clever way to break any ice between the servers, a conversation starter for the table and it shows that there's a playful element to the evening. The menu is short, consisting of four starters and six mains. I have no idea if it is or it isn't, but I always feel that it must be excruciating writing a menu for a hotel. Having to find a balance for overnight guests and the general public. I think they have got it spot on here. And if, like me, you have a preconceived view that some hotel restaurants are a little bit stuffy with no atmosphere, The Old Stocks is the complete opposite. It was a Wednesday night, vibrant and full to the brim. We opted for Cornish Crab tortellino, crab bisque & sea herbs and the Smoked ham hock and chicken terrine, piccalilli to kick things off, followed by the Duck breast, confit leg and liver croquette, with celeriac, pancetta and sherry and duck sauce and the Beef, caramelised onion, spring onion, mushroom and Madagascan pepper sauce for our mains. The sharing Côte de Boeuf was very tempting. Even knowing Chef John's background, I was still a little unsure what to expect. The Old Stocks' ethos has always been to offer luxury without being stuffy or pretentious. This food is certainly luxury, yet far from stuffy and pretentious. The cooking is, as expected, utterly superb. The crab starter was so good you would have been excused for thinking you were sitting by the coast rather than in the middle of the North Cotswolds, while although a terrine is never going to blow our minds, the braised ham hock and confied chicken legs were perfectly smoked and the piccalilli was beautifully smoked. The beef rump and duck are water bathed first then seared and sliced for presentation exposing the perfect rose as explained by our superb waiter, and restaurant manager, Bogdan. He wasn't wrong, and I'm unsure if I have ever eaten more tender meat in my life. The beef is served with boulangere potatoes, thinly sliced, layered with Lyonnaise onions and cooked with beef stock, classic mushroom duxelle, chard spring onion and pepper sauce complete the dish. As I mentioned before, this is proper cooking. With that said, the duck was possibly even better. Served with confit leg and liver croquette, celeriac and a beautifully rich sherry and duck sauce. You understand after the mains why two courses are encouraged as one course just isn't enough and doesn't do it justice. We added a fondant potato side to share which was topped with buttered mash. For pudding we opted for a Hazlenut Choux to share and an Espresso Martini (not to share). I'm no Greg Wallace, but I think I'm a good judge of a pudding. The fact I haven't got a sweet tooth and only ever "want one mouthful" means that if I have more that one, then it's got to be good, right? This was a choux bun was filled with hazelnut crémeux, candied hazelnut and praline ice cream and I definitely had at least half of it. Getting John Broughton in the kitchen has elevated the food to a new level. It's up there with some of the best food I have eaten for quite a while and you can tell the level of attention given to the menu in each mouthful.
You will need two courses, not just to fill you up but purely because it tastes so good. It, definitely, won't be another two years until our next visit. www.oldstocksinn.com
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"What are you up to next Tuesday?" a friend asked me just over three weeks ago. Before I had the chance to find an excuse, it was soon followed with "A friend has started Fade Projects and creates Big Green Egg/Fire cooking classes and feasts. The food will be insane, and it's only in Guiting Power, so I'll put your name down" The brains behind Fade Projects is Eddy, who has a healthy obsession with food, fire, the outdoors and Padel so I knew we would get on. The itinerary was sent over and was signed off with "Bring some warm clothing as we will be outside lots of the day" (at this stage it had rained for two weeks solid) and "Let me know when you want a game". I arrived at Cloud Hill Cottage in Guiting Power, ready to tackle the elements. It turned out (at that point) to be the nicest day of the year so far. The garden was a sun trap and far too warm for winter attire. It wasn't just me. Also invited was Seb, Eddy's Padel partner. Gabi, one of Eddy's foodie mates. Gee, the vision behind the Fade Project brand and the friend who badgered me to come. Matt, one of Eddy's fiends and top-notch photographer. In fact, every photo within this piece are his. And Annie, Eddy's partner, superstar host, runner, sous chef and pretty much everything else. Cloud Hill Cottage is located right next door to The Hollow Bottom pub and is available to rent on Airbnb. It's one of the locations that Eddy has teamed up with to offer something extra to the group of guests that book a stay. It also has to be one of the shortest, if not the shortest, walks back from 'the pub' in the UK. I have seen Big Green Eggs but have never cooked on them. In all honestly, I just thought they were glorified, expensive barbeques with brilliant branding and marketing. How wrong I was. Learning to light the Eggs (there were two of them; a Large and Mini Max) seemed to be a good place to start. Eddy obviously made this look simple and it was time to prep some food and enjoy a mid-morning beer while it reached the desired heat. First to be prepped was the Picanha. This was actually a new cut of beef for me. It's popular in Brazil and Portugal and is more commonly known as the Rump Cap over here. Eddy explained that we (the royal we) were going to be reverse searing this. Seb scored the layer of fat and rubbed in a generous amount of oil and salt. It was then cooked on an indirect set-up in the egg at 110. The meat was brought up to an internal temp of 48 using Eddy's pride and joy digital smart Meater thermometer (it was actually very cool and ridiculously clever), before whacking the heat up in the Egg to between 250-300 for a direct cook. It was then seared on all sides and rested. While that that was resting, it was Gabi's turn to get involved with the chopping of herbs for the Chimichurri. Once the olive oil, harissa, lemon, and seasoning were added, it was pretty much there. As you can see, the results were mouth-wateringly incredible. I thought we'd be having to wait for the final feast to to eat this, but we ate lots of what we cooked along the way which was a masterstroke. It was now my turn to get involved with some rib-eye steaks. One was to be "seared" (cooked on the cast iron plancha griddle) and the other "dirty" (cooked directly in the coals). After seasoning with oil and salt, I put them in the Egg, wearing what looked like a falconry glove. At this point, we were reminded to "burp" the egg. There have been lots of stories of lost eyebrows and forearm hair from people who had opened the lid on full heat. I'm no health and safety junkie, but it's essential that you open the lid slightly and then close it a couple of times to release some of the heat. They didn't need long at all. Once done, they rested before I cut them up (apparently like one of the Kardashians cutting a cucumber... I was proud not to get the joke) for people to try. They were both great, but the griddled one definitely just edged it. While we were chatting, drinking and picking at meat in the sunshine, Eddy put a couple of red peppers straight on the coals to literally burn for the Middle Eastern Mummarah dip. Once blackened, Annie peeled the skins and and added walnuts, balsamic, paprika and lemon and blended it all together. The next task was the cauliflower which was assigned to Seb. This was to be roasted with soy and truffle dressing. Seb got to work cutting it into steaks and it was then caramelise on the baking stone. Once cooked, it was served with the dressing and ready to eat. Cauliflower shouldn't be allowed to taste like this. I don't want to say it, but it was possibly the highlight of the day. Charred, sweet, truffly (is that a word?) and everything else I didn't expect it to be. If I was a vegetarian, I would eat this every day. Apparently, that was all just a taster before we prepared the main feast. Next was rosemary and sea salt focaccia, making the dough from scratch. My gran always told me that my hands were too warm for any kind of baking so I've carried that as an excuse with me all my life. Luckily, Eddy is from a family of bakers and knocked up a dough without any of us realising. Gee got to work with the kneading and it was left to rise. While that was happening Eddy soaked a cedar wood plank for the salmon and started prepping the rack of lamb. The fat was scored and then seared on the baking stone. They were then cooked on the conveggtor (a Big Green Egg ceramic insert) that was turned upside down. The fat on the lamb was then caramelised and Eddy's trusty Meater was used to reach internal temperature of 57, before being taken out to rest. The dough had returned from its visit to the conservatory and was knocked back into the shape of the pan and left to rise again. After which, Gee created some finger dents, covered in oil, salt and rosemary and baked it at 180. If it wasn't for Eddy's showpiece apple tarte tatin (coming later), this would have the most impressive creation of the day. There's an old pottery shed at the bottom of the garden where Annie had worked her magic with the table and some festoon lighting, while Eddy got the planks out of the water for the salmon (Direct cook at 180-200) and knocked up some roasted new potatoes which when done at home are good, but on a Green Egg are next level. Before we sat down, Eddy whipped out the spiced rum and started to make a caramel from the rum and sugar. Once the bubbles were large enough, he added apples and then covered it with pastry and cooked it in the egg at 180. While we ate, drank and showered Eddy with compliments, it was time for the Apple Tarte Tatin. A sticky masterpiece that if you didn't see it happening, you wouldn't have believed it was cooked on ceramic barbeque. It was borderline showing off. Fade School (Big Green Egg Classes) and Feasts are available to residents and non residents of Cloud Hill Cottage in Guiting Power.
Alternatively Fade Projects will come to your home and either run a School or Feast event. Links: Chef/Host/Creator: www.fadeprojects.co.uk Photos: www.instagram.com/sonof_william House: Cloud Hill Cottage Meat: www.waghornesbutchers.co.uk Egg: www.biggreenegg.co.uk THE PIG have announced that they have acquired the 17th century Barnsley House hotel, tucked away in the quintessential Cotswolds village of Barnsley, just four miles from Cirencester.
Nestled in historic arts and crafts style gardens, created by renowned garden designer Rosemary Verey, this little gem of a property has all the makings of a PIG already weaved into its DNA. Chairman Robin Hutson commented on the exciting announcement, “We are absolutely thrilled to have acquired Barnsley House, it has been in my peripheral vision for many years as a possible acquisition, always thinking it would make a perfect ‘Pig’ and we are very excited to have our first pub too”. Barnsley House will continue to operate with its existing team until Sunday 4th February, when the PIG team will go in to start the works to turn this stunner of a property into a PIG, with a view to opening the doors this summer as THE PIG-and The Village Pub, their first "Pig Pub". THE PIG group is a personal collection of small lifestyle restaurants with rooms where the focus is on authenticity and informality of design, food and service. With an obsessive commitment to home grown and local produce, THE PIG celebrates the seasons and uses only the best, freshest and most authentic foods and ingredients. It is all about the kitchen gardens, they are the beating heart of the operation. Everything is driven by the kitchen gardener/forager and chef. They grow and source the food and the chef then creates the menu; uncomplicated and simple kitchen garden food, true to the micro seasons with the emphasis squarely on fresh, clean flavours. What cannot be grown in THE PIG’s kitchen garden is sourced within a 25-mile radius of each hotel. There are no ‘cookiecutter roll-outs’; each hotel has its own personality and sense of self. Every property comes with laid-back warm service and a genuine commitment to environmental and social responsibility. THE PIG hotels aim to deliver an outstanding experience for every guest; a ‘wow’ moment that surprises and delights for a price that won’t break the bank. Home grown in every way – breaking the mould of designed hotels by working with what it has and recognising what is good about that. Designed in the style that has become THE PIG’s signature, each hotel has a garden restaurant and bedrooms with a touch of luxury and bags of homely charm plus Potting Shed or Shepherd’s Hut massage treatment rooms in or near the kitchen gardens. www.thepighotel.com/and-the-village-pub Happy New Year!
Our highly anticipated Top 50 Pubs in the Cotswolds guide for 2024 will be landing very soon. It's always hugely popular with the last two years' additions both attracting over 250,000 views, which it is absolutely ridiculous! A huge thank you to all of our readers and followers for their incredible support. After a brief hiatus, one of Cheltenham's most cherished restaurants will reopen its doors this December.
A true icon in the town's culinary landscape, The Mayflower will aim to rekindle the flavours that have long been etched into the memories of locals and visitors alike, with new owners Jay Ahmed and Michael Raphel paying homage to the Kong family who created and ran this much-loved restaurant for over 40 years. Diners at The Mayflower can expect a meticulously crafted menu that celebrates the diverse regional cuisines of China. The menu will showcase a myriad of influences, combining the best of classic Chinese dishes to Cantonese and East Asian favourites, all created with a passion for uniquely rooted recipes yet with a contemporary flair, showcasing the wonderful flavours of east Asia. The restaurant's interior is a blend of modern elegance and traditional Chinese design elements, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. Reservations will be open from mid December and bookings can be made through the restaurant's website www.themayflowerrestaurant.co.uk or by calling 01242 522426. You can sign up to receive news from The Mayflower by clicking on the link above. It was a memorable night for The Killingworth Castle, picking up three AA Rosettes at the prestigious AA Hospitality Awards.
One of the industry’s most highly anticipated events, the glittering awards ceremony at JW Marriott Grosvenor House London was hosted by much-loved TV presenter Claudia Winkleman, celebrating the UK’s top hotels, restaurants, and pubs and the people behind them. Nestled within the picturesque village of Wootton, Nr Woodstock, The Killingworth Castle has eight luxury en-suite rooms with exquisite food that focuses on seasonal, wild & organic fare from the Cotswolds. Establishments with three AA Rosettes are all outstanding restaurants achieving standards which demand national recognition well beyond their local area and The Killingworth Castle is one of only 7 new inns with rooms in the whole of the UK to be awarded a third rosette in 2023 at the AA’s annual Hospitality Awards last night. The AA, which has long been a marker of leading restaurant and accommodation venues, celebrates the crème de la crème of UK hospitality. Following a visit from an anonymous inspector, the hotel was reviewed against nine quality assessment areas, ranging from standards of service to cleanliness and quality of food. The inspector described the establishment as ‘well run in a personalised way with very good hospitality from a customer-focused team which made for a welcoming atmosphere throughout the stay’. www.thekillingworthcastle.com Following 37,000 nominations and six weeks of Good Food Guide inspections, The Halfway at Kineton continues to attract lots of attention after being included in The Good Food Guide’s 100 Best Local Restaurants of 2023. Since being taken on in February 2023 by chefs Nathan Eades and Liam Goff, the pub has caught the eye of foodies and critics (including Giles Coren who raved about the pie), and is the only pub or restaurant in the Cotswolds to feature in this list. The Good Food Guide's Best Local Restaurant awards began 13 years ago to celebrate the places that are the beating heart of communities around Britain. You can find the full list HERE. www.thehalfwayatkineton.com
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