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Each March, the Cheltenham Festival arrives with the subtlety of a cavalry charge in tweed. The horses are magnificent. The betting slips optimistic. And thousands of otherwise rational adults become expert armchair jockeys and trainers and fluent in ground conditions. For four days, Cleeve Hill echoes with deafening roars, urgent bookmakers and voices insisting their horse “just needed another fifty yards". To thrive rather than merely survive requires preparation. This is that guide. 1. Dress for the Weather That Actually Exists March in Gloucestershire is committed to unpredictability. Bring layers. Tweed is traditional. Waterproofing is advisable. The secret is to appear as though you have just stepped off a country estate, while quietly knowing you are prepared for horizontal rain. 2. Guinness Is a Social Beverage Official scientific consensus has not yet confirmed that Guinness tastes better at the Cheltenham Festival. Bar Willie Mullins, it may be the most beloved thing to cross the Irish Sea during festival week. It is the Festival’s unofficial diplomatic beverage; a pint that encourages conversation, softens racing disagreements, and allows strangers to share opinions without feeling any particular urgency to prove they are right. Hold it. Enjoy it, and let the afternoon take its course. 3. Remember That Everyone Becomes a Racing Expert Cheltenham has a curious social democracy. Bankers discuss breeding lines with farmers. City lawyers explain hurdle technique to people who have actually ridden horses. Smile politely. Nod. Return your attention to the racing. 4. Set a Budget Before You Start Betting Only bet what you can afford to lose and don't not chase losses. The 20/1 shot that “definitely had something about it” is not responsible for your savings account. Festival optimism is a beautiful thing. Financial regret is less so 5. Wear Proper Shoes (This One Matters More Than You Think) You may walk between the rails, the parade ring, the bar, and back again while wondering where the afternoon went. You might easily reach 20,000 steps. You do not want to achieve this in footwear that believes comfort is a myth. Festival racing is endurance sport. Dress accordingly. 6. The Horses And Jockeys Do Not Need Your Feedback Shouting advice to jockeys is unnecessary. The horses are elite athletes. They are already aware that there is a fence. Your emotional investment is appreciated but operationally irrelevant. 7. Make Sure You Eat Breakfast A Cheltenham afternoon begins long before the first race. A proper breakfast is essential. By all means, have a pint of Guinness with it if tradition demands. The Festival is an endurance sport and requires good stamina and a full belly. 8. Visit the Parade Ring (Highly Recommended) Spend time near the parade and pre-parade rings before the races begin. Stand quietly and watch the horses walk. You will notice how big and powerful they are, yet how calm and graceful they appear when moving slowly across the paddock. These are extraordinary athletes who will steal your heart. After the race, find you place to cheer in the winner, and applaud the runners up. The Festival is as much about appreciating extraordinary horses as it is about watching them compete. 9. Avoid the “Cheap Suit Festival Look” Nobody wants to appear as though they have just left a minor legal hearing. Tweed, countryside colours, or smart casual layers are preferred. You are attending racing heritage, not a job interview. 10. Study the Form… Or Follow Your Heart You can spend hours analysing racing statistics, or you can choose a horse because you like: The colour The number The name Or the vague feeling that it looks like a winner At the Cheltenham Festival, any horse can win. Expertise is optional, enjoyment is not. 11. Visit the Guinness Village No visit to the Cheltenham Festival is complete without the annual pilgrimage to The Guinness Village. People arrive as strangers and leave as temporary lifelong friends, and it's a place you should visit at least once. Singing is expected. Dancing is encouraged. Musical accuracy is entirely irrelevant, and should the band play Mr Brightside, dignity may be abandoned in favour of enthusiasm. 12. Do Not Call It “Holland and Cooper” You will see many people wearing beautiful tweed at the Cheltenham Festival. The brand is usually Holland Cooper, founded by Jade Holland Cooper. Not “Holland and Cooper”. These small details matter in countryside fashion. 12. Get a Steak Sandwich If hunger appears, proceed to the parade ring and locate Carbonis. Their steak sandwich is not merely food, it is strategic Festival infrastructure. The 5oz 30-day aged English ribeye in toasted sourdough with Dijon mayo and beetroot leaves exists to remind you that civilisation is possible even in March weather. You will not regret it. 10pm-you will send gratitude. 13. Enter the Shopping Village With Caution The shopping village is a carefully designed temptation zone. You will see things you did not know you needed and will suddenly believe you have always wanted them. It happens every year. The correct strategy is: Admire. Consider. Buy something nice. Support the small businesses inside. Walk away feeling culturally enriched and slightly lighter in wallet weight. Resistance is admirable but not required. 14. Above All, Appreciate the Horses The true heroes of the Cheltenham Festival are not the betting slips, they are the horses. The true success of the Cheltenham Festival is measured not in winnings alone, it is about witnessing athletic courage against gravity, the hill, and history. It is found in conversations on the journey home, the memory of a race where a horse travelled like poetry, and the feeling that you've just witnessed greatness in equine form. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is that... your (not entirely) essential guide to surviving the Cheltenham Festival.
The Cheltenham Festival is not about being the loudest person in the crowd, or the person who knows the most about form, breeding, or ground conditions. It is about standing in the March air watching extraordinary horses do extraordinary things. It is about horses jumping fences with grace and power, crowds rising in shared anticipation, and the countryside itself feeling momentarily alive with sport. Come for the racing, stay for the atmosphere and celebrate the horses. If your selections win, enjoy the moment. If they do not, remember that you have spent a day in the company of extraordinary athletes, good company, and one of Britain’s finest sporting events. The Festival is not simply watched, it's experienced. And that is why people return year after year. www.thejockeyclub.co.uk/cheltenham-festival
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Let’s be honest, the Cotswolds isn't exactly short of some incredible places to eat in some of its most popular towns. There’s The Old Butchers in Stow-on-the-Wold, Smiths in Bourton-on-the-Water and Juliet in Stroud. All brilliant. But push a little further north, in and around Shipston on Stour (don't squint) and you will stumble upon some of the region’s most exciting food that seems to slip under the radar. Quietly brilliant, exactly where you least expect it. Take The Bower House, the sort of place that makes you wonder why more people haven’t stumbled off the beaten track sooner. Set in a handsome Georgian townhouse in the heart of Shipston on Stour, it feels like a proper neighbourhood restaurant with rooms; warm, elegant, and surprisingly ambitious. Under Head Chef Leo Kattou, menus rotate with the seasons and celebrate British ingredients with ingenuity and restraint, earning AA Rosettes, Michelin Guide recommendations and plenty of local admiration along the way. Now, cross the road, figuratively, if not literally, and you’ll find Bastardo’s Trattoria. Born from the same creative minds (Richard Craven) behind the Michelin‑starred Royal Oak at Whatcote, it wears its Italian inspiration with a distinctly British twist: seasonal produce treated with bold flavour and just the right amount of irreverence. The kitchen is led by John Broughton, formerly Head Chef at the Royal Oak, while the menu is shaped by Craven, whose love of Italian cooking was forged during the early years of his career. Warm, buzzy, and effortlessly confident. The town seems to be staging a culinary coup. And while we're on the subject, we should talk about The Royal Oak at Whatcote. A rarity for the Cotswolds; a village pub with a Michelin star and the quiet confidence to use it without preening. Run by chef‑owner Richard Craven and his wife Solanche, this is proper country cooking with brains and heart. The menu shifts with the micro‑seasons, rooted in wild ingredients and local foragers, from game shot on nearby hills to vegetables and rare breeds sourced from neighbouring estates, all celebrated in dishes pared down to their best possible selves. The service, warm and unpretentious, makes you feel you’re in the hands of friends rather than critics, and that’s part of the magic. Twelve minutes from Shipston is Whichford, one of those villages you could easily drive past without a second thought, which would be a mistake, because it is quietly blessed with not one but two reasons to stop. The Norman Knight (recently reopened under Matt and Katie Beamish of The Kingham Plough) sits comfortably on the village green, all low beams and flagstones, the reassuring heartbeat of a proper country pub and a good menu. Classic dishes are handled with care rather than fuss, making it the sort of place where you arrive for a pint and stay for supper without ever regretting the decision. A short stroll away, The Straw Kitchen at Whichford Pottery offers something more intimate and quietly distinctive. Tucked inside the garden of a working pottery, it's unique, small, brilliant and somewhere that laughs in the face of coordinated colour palettes. Head Chef Christne Bottine creates a menu that is creative without being complicated, the setting charming without trying too hard, and the whole experience feels personal rather than performed. Ten minutes in the other direction from Shipston, The Howard Arms in Ilmington feels like one of those places that has quietly mastered the art of being exactly what a Cotswold village pub should be. The food sits comfortably between classic British pub cooking and something a little more considered, with seasonal menus that avoid unnecessary complication. Inside, the atmosphere is warm and unhurried rather than showy especially with the fires roaring and a dog sitting by you feet in winter months. In addition to these and, again, all within 10 minutes of Shipston you will find The Cherington that offers the reassuring warmth of a proper country pub, honest cooking and long, relaxed lunches. The Fuzzy Duck at Armscote that offers polished seasonal dishes that sit neatly between rustic charm and modern confidence. Meanwhile, Pit Kitchen brings open-fire energy and bold, flavour-forward cooking, proving the countryside can handle a little urban culinary attitude. Herd at Todenham Manor is a quietly confident arrival. The menu leans on farm-sourced meat and locally inspired produce, driven by chef Christopher Ellis in a unique tented restaurant on the farm. in the northern Cotswolds — a wine, produce and pantry concept that feels less like a shop and more like an invitation to savour the region’s best ingredients, with thoughtful selections and seasonal discoveries that reward curiosity rather than hurry. And to wash it down? The Cotswolds Distillery in Stourton does rather lovely things with gin and whisky that reward slow, appreciative sipping rather than hurried drinking. You can lose a morning or afternoon here with brunch or lunch in their Still House cafe. Beer wise, North Cotswold Brewery make proper country ales just outside Shipston that feel designed for worn wooden tables, late afternoon sunlight and conversations that wander pleasantly off topic. They don't offer tours, but you will find their ales behind the bar at many local pubs. Shagweaver is particularly good. And there you have it, this edge of the Cotswolds has been quietly getting rather good at this food and drink lark. While other parts chase crowds and postcards, this is the Cotswolds many people may not have heard about which, in some way, is still part of its charm. If you enjoy eating well, drinking properly, and quietly knowing you’ve found somewhere rather good before the crowds catch on, this is a corner of the Cotswolds worth remembering. Mentioned in this piece: The Bower House bower.house Bastardo’s Trattoria www.bastardostrattoria.co.uk The Royal Oak, Whatcote www.theroyaloakwhatcote.co.uk The Norman Knight thenormanknight.co.uk The Straw Kitchen www.whichfordpottery.com/visit/straw-kitchen The Howard Arms howardarms.com The Cherington thecherington.co.uk The Fuzzy Duck www.fuzzyduckarmscote.com Pit Kitchen www.pitkitchen.co.uk Herd todenhammanorfarm.co.uk/herd Cotswolds Distillery www.cotswoldsdistillery.com North Cotswold Brewery www.northcotswoldbrewery.co.uk On Monday the 9th of February, the culinary world gathered in anticipation as the new MICHELIN Stars were revealed at the 2026 MICHELIN Guide Ceremony, held at the Convention Centre in Dublin. Here in the Cotswolds, we are pleased to report that five of our restaurants have once again retained their coveted one-star distinction, and here they are! |
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