REVIEW: THE NOOK ON FIVE, CHELTENHAM

There seems to be a new restaurant opening in Cheltenham every week at the moment. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love it, but in all honestly, I can't keep up. 

"Have you been to Journey yet?" No. "What about Cantina del Barrio?" No. "LA Smoke Hut?" No... but tell me more.

The newest addition (it might not be now. it has been 5 days after all) to the town is The Nook on Five, Cheltenham's first-ever rooftop restaurant. 

The "on Five" bit represents the floor number it is on in the Quadrangle, a 1970s once tired-looking, now completely rejuvenated, building located on the corner of Imperial Square and Promenade and overlooking the beautiful Imperial Gardens. 

What they have done here is super impressive. I'm no George Clarke, but the building was pretty grim and a bit of an eyesore. I love David Bowie and a prawn cocktail as much as the next person, but the 70s have a lot to answer for.

I digress. 

The restaurant is fresh and modern with a whiff of newness. It's a beautiful sunny day so we get a luminous view across the Cheltenham skyline. It has all the feels of Kensington until you see the Eagle Tower in the distance. We can't even blame the 70s for that. 

I was surprised to discover that this was a family-run restaurant (I just presumed it was either part of a chain or under the ownership of some big investor) and then, later, amazed to hear that it was Alisha Philpotts', head chef and cousin of the owners, first ever restaurant. 

I go all out, choosing scallops, celeriac puree, peas and chicken skin granola to start, followed by the fillet steak, café de Paris butter, caramelised shallot, wild mushrooms and vine tomatoes from the grill menu. I was torn between that and the beef shin and treacle pie. 

The scallops were perfectly juicy and the puree and added crunch of the granola worked superbly well together and the steak was genuinely the best piece of meat I have eaten this year. 

The cooking was sublime. It's fine-dining, but not the type where you get a squiggle of jus in each corner of the plate. It's also pretty punchy pricewise. My main was £38 without a side that are all priced at £6 and big enough to share. 

We all know that we are paying for the whole experience (which was very special), the spectacular location (it's lovely up there), the service (which is outstanding), the sommelier (they offer some local gems from Gloucestershire, Worcestershire, Herefordshire and Wiltshire vineyards) and the most incredible pastry chef (the blueberry custard, white chocolate mousse, puff pastry pudding look liked a work of art), but ultimately they will be judged on the food it was truly superb.

It's not somewhere you will come to eat every week that's for sure, but if they can avoid any serious teething problems and keep the quality this high every time, they could very quickly become one of the best restaurants in town.

thenookcheltenham.co.uk