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On 26 August, the Cotswolds gets a new kind of pub. EMBER at The Chandlers Arms, in the village of Epwell, brings together Southern American live-fire cooking, craft beer and a relaxed, no-nonsense approach to hospitality.
The new venture is a collaboration between EMBER co-founder Matty Cartwright and The Chandlers Arms’ Harry Flockhart, combining their experience in hospitality with inspiration gathered on travels through America, the Eastern Mediterranean and East Asia. Matty’s time in the Carolinas and Texas immersed him in low-and-slow barbecue and live-fire cooking, while Harry developed his appreciation for classical technique working alongside his father in France. The result is a menu that brings those influences together over fire, using seasonal British produce wherever possible sourced from farms within 10 miles of the pub. Expect a rotating selection of small and large plates designed for sharing, including Smoked Apple Cobbler Pork Belly, Smoked Beef Cheek Massaman, Potato Pavé with Whipped Pimento Cheese and the signature Ember Burger. Each dish draws on a story or memory from the founders’ travels. The drinks list follows the same globetrotting approach, with craft beers from independent breweries around the world alongside house cask ales brewed in the team’s small Warwickshire brewery. A house pale ale and best bitter will be made using surplus bread in the malt bill, helping cut food waste in the process. Cocktails will centre on spirits from Cotswolds Distillery, with serves including a Grapefruit Gimlet and Brown Butter Old Fashioned, while the wine and spirits list travels from Ugandan rum to Jordanian wine. Inside, EMBER at The Chandlers Arms is far from the archetypal country pub. Think deep teal walls, low lighting, reclaimed furniture, vintage Chesterfield benches and velvet sofas, alongside pieces from Matty’s art collection, a Jimi Hendrix bust and a giant Tweety Pie head presiding over the room. The result is a Cotswolds pub with a distinctly international outlook: big flavours, good beer, British produce and plenty to talk about. www.embertaproom.com
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There are still corners of the Cotswolds where lunch is not an obligation but a lightly dangerous social commitment. The kind that begins with perfectly respectable intentions and ends several hours later with empty wine bottles and rearranged evening plans Ever since Rivals returned Jilly Cooper’s world of country-house chaos to public life, the idea of the long Cotswolds lunch has felt newly relevant again. Not the polished fantasy sold to weekenders, but the real thing: Bloody Marys before noon, flirtation over oysters, gossip that moves faster than the traffic through Burford, and the growing realisation that nobody has any serious intention of leaving before dark. This is a landscape of polo, horse racing, expensive divorces and pubs where lunch is rarely just lunch, it's social theatre with side dishes. And if the Rivals cast ever escaped the television screen, these are exactly the pubs where you would expect to find them. Rupert Campbell-Black |
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