Review: Breakfast at The Straw Kitchen, Whichford Pottery

Some places in the Cotswolds are so perfectly arranged you half expect to find a National Trust volunteer polishing the scones. The Straw Kitchen is not one of them.

This place is a delightful oddity in more ways than one. It feels like one of the Cotswolds' best-kept secrets that somehow everyone seems to knows about, and bar the pottery itself, the only neighbour of note is the Cotswolds Distillery a couple of miles down the road, which is a fine if your plans involve whisky before noon, but less immediately helpful when you’re seeking coffee, eggs and bacon.

In a world where cafés look like they’ve been born of a mood board, paint charts and week-long branding meetings, The Straw Kitchen laughs in the face of coordinated colour palettes. As you walk in from the car park, you are greeted by an artfully chaotic jumble of mismatched tables, chairs in a red-sided canopy tent stuck to the side of what looks like an old stone barn, half-hidden behind some plants tall enough to demand planning permission. 

Walking into the barn, you are hit the waft of coffee like the opening bars of your favourite song, a kitchen alive with clatter and chatter and a much more rustic feel with wooden beams, panels and tables. The walls are a happy muddle of art that doesn’t match, books stacked on shelves that don’t care, clay pots keeping company with yet more books, and a few old tennis rackets which, for reasons I can’t explain, look like they’ve always lived there. It's like boho-chic experiment gone gloriously right and manages to feel both thrown together and utterly deliberate. 

It was wonderfully busy and we found a small table next to an open window in the red tent. Just inside enough to be out of the direct sun of this third life-threatening heatwave of the summer, but outside enough to feel like we're not scared. The menus are all above the kitchen inside the barn so it's a case of taking enough photos on your phone to take back to the tables with you, while picking up your cutlery, napkins and bottle of organic tomato sauce on the way past.

The menu, thankfully, keeps things gloriously simple. A Paddock Farm bacon sarnie, homebaked toast, homemade beetroot relish and homegrown leaves (£7.50) or Paddock Farm eggs on toast (£6.50), again all homemade and a choice of poached, scrambled or fried. There are some extras you can add too. 

I joined the queue behind someone who was still deciding when ordering and in front of a cyclist in full lycra from a table spandexed-clad gents in the garden, settled in for their mid-ride refuel. I will never fully understand the confidence with which a grown man will stroll into a civilised breakfast wearing cycling lycra, an outfit that leaves absolutely nothing to the imagination, and order scrambled eggs as though he’s in trousers. I ordered poached eggs on toast with added bacon (+£3.50) twice and two flat whites. 

The flat white was, naturally, served in a Whichford Pottery mug. There’s something deeply pleasing about drinking from a vessel made just metres away, knowing you could wander in afterwards and take one home. The breakfast arrived, yes on a Whichford Pottery plate, with a couple of eggs ready for the runny yolk fork test with a pile of beautifully smoky thin-cut bacon and leaves on the side. Where breakfasts in the Cotswolds usually cost more than your first car, finding one for a tenner was as refreshing as the charm and character of our surroundings.

The pottery itself is just a short along the path through the middle of the vibrant garden, past the empty table that the cyclists vacated and dogs and humans sheltering under parasols and canopies. Shelves and tables are stacked with the cups and plates you just drank from and ate off and lots more you can buy, so don’t be surprised if you leave clutching a Whichford mug like it’s a trophy. There is an abundance of assorted garden pots too for any budding Monty Dons out there, with one designed in tribute to his old dog, Ned and handmade by the pottery.

We left with full stomachs, a new mug, and that contented feeling that comes from having spent a morning somewhere that matters to the people who run it. It's rare it is to find a place that manages to be both unpretentious and authentically warm. and one that wears its quirks like a badge of honour. It's a breakfast spot for those who want to be fed and not fussed over in a wonderfully  unpretentious,  relaxed atmosphere that’s welcoming without being twee.

If you like your breakfast with a bit of character, your coffee in a handmade mug, and the company of a crowd that’s equal parts dogs, cyclists, locals, and pottery pilgrims, then The Straw Kitchen is worth the detour, worth the time, and worth telling your friends about, though selfishly, you might also be tempted to keep it to yourself. 

www.whichfordpottery.com/visit/straw-kitchen

​Whichford, Nr. Shipston-on-Stour, Warwickshire, CV36 5PG

Open: Wednesday to Saturday: 10am to 4pm
​Closed: Sunday to Tuesday​