Review: The Mandarin Restaurant, Cheltenham Racecourse

Whether in October’s gold or March’s first green, there's always something special about a day at Cheltenham. The air has that unmistakable energy, a hum of excitement and murmur of anticipation before the first race that seems to roll off Cleeve Hill itself. 

A crisp wind sweeps the course, bringing tweed back into fashion, and the faint threat of rain makes our booked hospitality in The Mandarin Restaurant feel all the more inviting.

The Mandarin has an easy warmth about it. It’s styled more country pub than a corporate hospitality suite; relaxed, comfortable, and pleasingly unpretentious. There are tables for singles or couples, larger ones for groups and booths for a slightly more private get together. Once seated, that table is yours for the whole day and you can come and go as you please. Wander out and about to watch the horses in the Parade Ring (literally just outside the door), drift around the course watching the races from the rails, or simply stay put with a glass of wine in hand and watch the races unfold on one of the screens around the restaurant or from its own outside viewing area. And the real magic? The three courses of lunch arriving precisely when you desire, allowing the afternoon to linger at your own pace.

​Lunch began with our chosen starters, Salt and Pepper Squid and the Martell Double Gloucester Cheese Soufflé. 

The squid arrived looking far smarter than squid really has any right to, laid out on a little bed of leaves, golden and glistening in all the right places. The coating was thin, crisp, and gave way to the tender flesh beneath. A few curls of pickled red chilli brought the right flicker of heat, just enough to wake it up without becoming too shouty. It was as close to impressive as a plate of squid ever gets.

The soufflé, meanwhile, was a triumph, both in look and taste. Light, airy, and beautifully soft, it carried the rich flavour of the cheese with effortless charm. The Stowford Press cider apple chutney lent a gentle sweetness that sang in harmony, while the toasted honey seeds offered a subtle crunch.

​After taking in a race from the rails opposite the final hurdle, we strolled back to the restaurant for our mains.

The Supreme of English Chicken took us a little by surprise and quietly stole the show. The meat was perfectly tender, the tender stem broccoli made us feel better about ourselves and the potato dauphinoise added just the right creamy richness without feeling heavy. A Glastonbury Tor goat’s cheese bonbon offered a gentle tang, while the chimichurri brought a fresh lift that pulled it all together.

The 28-day aged Rib-Eye was equally impressive; bold, confident, and cooked rare, though you can, of course, request it more done if you prefer. Full of flavour, it was paired with thick-cut chips that were crisp, fluffy, and some of the best we’ve ever tasted. The onion rings were self-assured circles of crunch and the tomato added a gentle sweetness. But let’s be honest, the meat and chips were the stars here.

Throughout the afternoon, the restaurant carried an easy rhythm. Guests drifted in and out between races, there were cheers and groans from those watching the screens, and the sound of the Cheltenham crowd floated in from outside. 

We shared a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc (priced at £34.50 which we didn't think was actually too horrendous) that was bright, crisp, and perfectly pleasant. We're not entirely sure why The Mandarin doesn’t serve wine by the glass, but in the spirit of the day, the bottle was hardly a problem. 

Dessert made a perfectly polite exit from the meal, but in the best possible way. The Selection of British Cheeses was just right with no huffing, puffing, or pretence, just cheese behaving exactly as it should. The Sticky Toffee Apple Pudding, meanwhile, was the sort of warm, gently sweet thing that makes you sigh in approval. The apple added a touch of balance, the honeycomb crisp added a different texture and a scoop of salted caramel ice cream melted lazily and eventually feel off its tower into the sauce.

All told, a lunch at The Mandarin is the sort of thing that quietly transforms a day at the races. You’re not just watching horses, you’re settling in, eating well, drinking something decent, and drifting in and out of the action without ever feeling hurried. It’s a clever way of elevating your raceday and the sort of indulgence that makes a day at Cheltenham even more enjoyable and entirely worth doing.

www.thejockeyclub.co.uk/cheltenham/hospitality/restaurant-packages/the-mandarin-restaurant

​Save 25% on the gate price for The November Meeting when you book by October 31st.

The view from the Mandarin Restaurant

​In partnership with Cheltenham Racecourse and The Jockey Club
www.thejockeyclub.co.uk/cheltenham